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Vibrant food, ancient villages, quiet trails: Run the Alps is now in Provence

Vibrant food, ancient villages, quiet trails: Run the Alps is now in Provence

Jun 9, 2025

Top photo: Sam Lhermillier

I’m twisting and turning down a narrow stone alley, my shoulders brushing against ancient stone walls. I’ve spent the morning trail running past olive orchards, through vineyards, and across high pastures– finishing by wading the Ouvéze river, perhaps in the same spot where Hannibal passed with his elephants in 218 BC. In a flash, the tour is over – we’re standing in Place du Quinconce in Buis-les-\Barronnies, a village in the heart of France’s Provence region that celebrated its 800th birthday just a few years ago. 

After several years of research to find the best routes, picturesque hotels, and mapping out the logistics underneath it all, this is Run the Alps’ first trail running tour in Provence. And as I catch my breath, one thought keeps coming back into my mind: We’re going to be spending a lot of time here. 

Narrow passages between ancient stone walls, Buis-les-Baronnies. (Photos: Cam Bevan & Doug Mayer)

How did we get here? Let’s take a quick step back. 

At Run the Alps, we made an intentional choice over a decade ago: we don’t offer trips around the globe. This is for (at least) three reasons:

  1. The Alps have some of the best trail running anywhere in the world. 
  2. We didn’t think we could be the go-to expert if our trips included regions all over the place.
  3. We’re based in the Alps, so we live and breathe the trail running scene there. We have the unique insights and local knowledge that comes from being part of that trail running community. 

Those are three of the reasons why I think Run the Alps is the best trail running tour company in the Alps. 

But here’s a secret...

Doug running the Route Montagne de Linceuil. (Photo: Cam Bevan)

In the Alps’ off-season – from March to June, October through December – we often sneak down to Provence in the south of France, just five hours away. Our staff and guides have gotten to know the region, and we’ve fallen in love. 

During the spring and fall “shoulder” seasons, Provence is quiet, low-key, and authentic. There are few tourists, the pace is laid back, and everyone is friendly and helpful. The summer months can also be great – you’ll get to see the lavender fields in bloom! Though you should be ready for the possibility of some hot days and a livelier scene in the villages.

(Photo: Cam Bevan)
(Photo: Sam Lhermillier)

The trails are relaxant. Our days running were stress-free, often starting around 9 or 10am and finishing in time for a late lunch – leaving the afternoon free to roam through our adopted village for the day, read a book at a cafe, or schedule spa time. 

And the food? Well, it was definitely up to Provence’s globally acclaimed standards. Fresh, local, and created with pride. (Pro tip: be sure to stop at La Grangette de Biquette in the hamlet of Rochers de Sabouillon, where Daniel and Sandrin will ply you with local specialties often foraged from the hills around their little bistro. Call ahead for reservations, since there are only a few tables. And yes, it’s a stop on our tour!)

La Grangette de Biquette in Roche-sur-le-Buis. (Photo: Doug Mayer)

Our guided and self-guided tours take in some of the best trails in the region, and visit our favorite towns and villages. We finish in the hillside village of Gigondas, surrounded by vineyards producing the revered wine of the same name. Our hotel was a beautifully renovated series of stone houses, including one of the town’s towers! To get to dinner on our last night, we walked for 20 minutes through olive groves to Hôtel Les Florets, enjoyed a multi-course feast of local cuisine and wine, and followed that by headlamp-lit meandering back to our cozy rooms. A routine that one imagines has been happening largely unchanged for centuries. It was one of the moments I won’t soon forget, and exactly why I love our trips. 

The next morning, our guide Cam and I lingered, having a leisurely lunch on the patio of Ô Cépages, before the drive back home to Chamonix. Sitting on the restaurant patio, enjoying goat cheese salad and fresh baguettes, we realized we both felt similarly: it was hard to leave this peaceful corner of France. There was a bit of solace, though, knowing we’d be back!

Running above La Roche-sur-le-Buis. (Photo: Cam Bevan)

Join us for a guided tour or go self-guided to experience the beauty of Provence.

Our self-guided trail running tour of Provence is currently being finalized. You can already contact us for booking in 2025 or with any questions.


(Photos: Sam Lhermillier)

author
Doug Mayer
Doug Mayer is the founder of Run the Alps and lives in Chamonix, France with his labradoodle, Izzy. He is the author of The Race that Changed Running: The Inside Story of UTMB and writes for Outside Online and Ultrasignup News. His upcoming book is a graphic novel about Italy’s 330km long Tor des Géants trail race.